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David Meiland

David Meiland

Joined on July 28, 2003

Last Post on February 25, 2013

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This might work

@ February 25, 2013 8:07 PM in underground ductwork

but I doubt it will help get the price down

http://www.spunstrand.com/index.htm

Brian

@ December 21, 2006 8:44 PM in Roth panels, or what?

Somehow I missed your post on this. If I may ask, what were your reasons for using Roth and can you compare it to any similar systems in terms of cost, effectiveness, etc.?

Backcharges

@ December 21, 2006 7:39 PM in Roth panels, or what?

are a tough topic. I try to use only the very best subs. I pay them what they charge. If I turn the whole thing into a minefield where a mistake can cost $500 they'll probably just go work somewhere else instead of coming to my job. One of the main things that defines "best subs" for me is the absence of any greenhorn punks on the crew, so I don't expect stupid stuff, maybe just the occasional honest mistake. If anyone hits a tube it's probably going to be me. Glad to hear flooring installs are the major issue.

Hits? Ouch!

@ December 21, 2006 2:24 PM in Roth panels, or what?

I'm wondering / hoping that tube hits are related to flooring installed with fasteners more than anything else. I am expecting about 70% of the flooring to be bamboo, and 30% to be tile. There are no fasteners with the bamboo--it just sits there. Tile, if over WB or similar would be with backerboard and screws, but if over gyp would be thinset over a liquid membrane applied to the gyp, no backerboard or screws. All cabinet bases would be installed prior to tubing, as far as I can tell. You guys heat under cabinets? I assume not. Who else might hit the tubing?

@ December 20, 2006 8:25 PM in Roth panels, or what?

Mark, Warmboard looks to me like a decent product, but if possible I would like to go with something that can be installed after the house is dried in. Warmboard is installed by the carpenters before walls are framed and in many cases it appears that the tubing is installed at that point also. I run my own framing crew and yes we could do that, but if I can avoid the risk I will. The other panel systems all seem to be installed as part of the mechanical rough-in. Rob, thanks for the ref to Raupanel. I had not seen that system before, and it looks good. Their tile install detail looks a little challenging--I would have to find a TCA spec for installing tile over the system. A similar problem with the Roth is that they do not want you to thinset backerboard over it, which is how all backerboard manufacturers spec their products. The majority of the house is floating bamboo.

@ December 20, 2006 6:46 PM in Roth panels, or what?

I'm a GC starting a new house shortly after the first. We're trying to sort out the various ways of doing heated floors. First floor is partly slab on grade and partly framed over a crawl. Second floor is typical framing and is to be heated also. The designer has come up with a product I've never seen... Roth Radiant Panels. It appears to be a thin foam insulation panel with routed grooves for PEX. My plumbing/heating sub has not seen this before but has ordered a sample. Can anyone comment on this product, how well it works, why it is or isn't good, etc.? We've talked about gypcrete, and I know there are a few other panel-type products out there. Warmboard has been ruled out for a couple of reasons. What's the state of the art in hydronic over wood subfloor these days?

Standard shower

@ April 22, 2006 10:29 AM in Takagi temperature fluctuations

with one 2.5 GPM Speakman AnyStream shower head (a personal fave). Water pressure is from a 120-gallon bladder tank that produces 60PSI when full and kicks on the well pump at 40PSI. It takes quite a lot of water to get from 60 to 40. There would not appear to be *any* chance that this shower would be capable of kicking on the well after running for 90 seconds, and doubtless the tank is never actually full when the shower starts anyway. Regardless, the timing of the temperature drop is so consistent that I think it's coming from the unit itself, not anything external.

That would cause

@ April 21, 2006 3:54 PM in Takagi temperature fluctuations

the opposite of what we experience. I understand that the unit can only control the temperature of the water leaving it. It appears to do this correctly, for the most part. It is a relatively short run of insulated 1/2" copper pipe to the shower, and the pipe comes to temp fairly quickly. The problem is that the temp suddenly drops after a stable level has been reached, as though the unit suddenly modulates down for some reason. No changes to flow rate, incoming water temp, pressure, etc., are happening. I'm guessing that there is something going on in the Takagi's internal controller, but not sure what it might be. Needless to say, I was hoping this would be an easy one!

@ April 21, 2006 9:53 AM in Takagi temperature fluctuations

New Takagi TK1s installed for DHW only, replacing a tank unit. LPG piped thru about 35 LF of 3/4" black iron pipe. Water supply is from a 120-gallon pressure tank. After about 90 seconds in the shower, the water temp drops by several degrees, enough to require an adjustment of the shower valve. Then another couple of minutes later is goes back up, requiring a second adjustment. From there on it's usually stable. There's plenty of gas and plenty of water flow. This occurs every time regardless of water use at other fixtures, well pump cycling, etc. Anyone dealt with this, or have thoughts on it?

Stuff I don't know...

@ June 30, 2004 2:12 AM in Takagi questions

2Br/1Ba house, 2 occupants, existing 40 gallon tank taking up floor space that we want for other uses. My thought is to install a Takagi on a piece of out-of-the-way interior wall space that's just right for it. I'm a GC and not a plumber although skilled enough with pipe (and wire and flue) to get the unit installed correctly. Four questions: 1. Any experience with the T-K1S model (apparently quite new) vs. the T-K2? Or, would a TK-JR work? We do not have a giant spa tub with a 10 GPM filler. Kitchen sink, lav, washer, tub/shower... that's it. Everything within maybe 25 feet of pipe of the heater location. Well water, very cold in the winter, fairly mild climate (just a few freezing days in winter). 2. Fuel is propane, pipe is 3/4" black iron. Fuel passes thru a regulator on the exterior of the house, and goes into a 12" section of 3/4" pipe. Immediately after that 12" piece is a tee, and 3/4" pipe goes in two directions--one way to the kitchen stove and water heater, the other way to a propane fired heating stove. While I'm pretty sure that the two individual 3/4" branches are capable of carrying adequate gas to their respective destinations, I'm not sure about that initial 12" piece.... it seems like a possible bottleneck, but then again it's so short. Thoughts on that? Do I need a 1" regulator? 3. Washing dishes by hand (yes, I do that)... turning the hot water on and off to rinse. Seems like the flash heater would send a few seconds worth of cold water into the line every time the faucet is opened. I'm having a hard time seeing how a flash heater can deliver consistently hot water when the tap is opened and closed frequently such as when rinsing. Sorry... I'm dense about some of this. I do not want my wife to kick my butt after I install this thing. 4. Last Q: vent stack will be directly from the top of unit, 8' vertically thru ceiling, unconditioned attic space, and then roof. I'm assuming I need double-wall cat. III material due to the penetrations of ceiling and roof, and wall mount location on sheetrock. Correct? Thanks for reading, and any comments greatly appreciated.

Recommendations for boiler/DHW heater?

@ July 28, 2003 10:18 PM in Recommendations for boiler/DHW heater?

I'm planning on installing a new hot water heating system this fall and would like opinions on the best boiler to use. Ideally I'd like to remove the existing tank water heater, which is located in a terrible spot, and have the new boiler heat the DHW too. The house is in western Washington in a moderate climate. It's one story, about 1200SF, wood framed over a 36" crawl, decent-sized attic under a 6:12 roof, insulated everywhere, has semi-decent insulated glass. Fuel is propane (or #2 diesel if you want to go that route). Based on my unwillingness to crawl around for a week installing tubing, I was thinking of panel radiators. I have not had a heat loss done but will. There are a few options for locating the boiler and board. I have seen info on the Baxi and Triangle Tube models, but am not yet aware of others. I've seen several on-demand hot water heaters and really like the idea of not storing hot water. Propane is relatively expensive and up-front investment in efficiency is probably a good idea. Service for anything complicated will be hard to get in this location, and my spouse is generally intolerant of the heat going out. My hound dog would totally dig a radiator to lie near during the night. So, with some or all of that in mind, what are the good boiler choices? All comments appreciated!

Pressure relief problem

@ June 19, 2003 10:03 PM in Pressure relief problem

I recently noticed a bit of water coming out of the pressure relief pipe from my boiler (it drains to paved area where a small water spot has formed). This appears to be a new problem and may be related to a bathroom remodel I just finished. The house has a 3/4" copper main water line with 1/2" branches. When I installed the heating system 5 years ago, I ran a new 1/2" branch to the boiler board for the makeup line. During the recent remodel my plumber tapped into that 1/2" line and fed the toilet from it (it's the closest supply line to the toilet location). Now, when that toilet is flushed, a slow, temporary drip from the boiler pressure relief happens about 60 seconds later (there's about 20 feet of pipe before it emerges from the crawl space). The system is a staple-up with two zones and eight loops, and has been working fine since installed. There is a backflow preventer with its own pressure relief, and that doesn't appear to be dripping. Water was bled completely from the hot and cold lines a couple of times during the remodel. The toilet was set last week. There are no other changes I can think of. Is it possible that the temporary reduction of pressure in the makeup line is somehow causing the pressure relief to open. The toilet flushing and the drip seem very consistently related. The system has about 13 PSI in it and as far as I know the boiler relief is a 30 PSI device. I'm clueless...