Joined on August 12, 2006
Last Post on March 12, 2013
@ July 1, 2010 1:09 PM in dirty condenserswill take care of your problem. I always hook up to a water hydrant and backflush the cond. coil. If there is grease, use a degreaser on it. The problem with dirty coils is it takes time to do it right and people think that they shouldn't have to pay someone "just to spray water on the coil"
Don in MO
@ July 1, 2010 12:59 PM in grab & gomany people "worked" on this thing? I have run into things like that, the owner wants something and asks a person to do it. The person replies, sure, with no thinking about reality and why you should not even think about doing what the owner wants!!
When are you going to change out the driers? Are you resizing after the acid clean-up? Sounds like a fun job.
Don in MO
@ June 28, 2010 9:52 PM in grab & goWhat stat are you using? Old fashioned cap tube or electronic? When we re-piped the grocery store, we used the Johnson Controls electronic stats to control all the "new" cases.
@ June 28, 2010 8:58 PM in grab & gocheck Hussmans website? You need to know the model number, but they even have obselete stuff listed.
I have used their website before when we re-piped a grocery store in IA. Don't know if the website now will have the info you need.
Don in MO
@ June 14, 2010 2:19 PM in Micron GaugeTechman's post got me thinking, what micron gauge are you using? I would love to have the old analog that I think Thermal made. Before I have used the Supco with lights.
What are your preferences and experiances??
Don in MO
@ April 18, 2010 9:38 PM in Hard Start Relay,Honest Answer PleaseDon here,
Anytime I run into a start Cap bad, I replace the pot. relay. Same with a bad Run Cap. It just became a habit. If the one or both of the caps are bad, then more than likely the relay is bad. Especially if there is any age on the system. I give the customer the option, but why should they worry about something else going wrong a few days later? 99.9% of the time the customer says ok!
I did/do this when opening up frost free refrigerators and working on the defrost componants. If the heater is bad, then recommend replacing the defrost terminator. If the customer doesn't want to, fine, make a not and hope they don't have problems done the road.
Don in MO
@ April 7, 2010 5:34 AM in Three phaseWhat brand and model was it? Copeland electrical handbook has a good diagram for the wiring.
@ July 21, 2009 1:48 PM in refrigeration courses?Go to the Refrigeration Service Engineers Society. They have new online courses. Haven't had the time to try one, but usually they have good stuff. I believe they are RSES.org. Sorry, don't have the site saved on this computer. Don in MO
@ July 19, 2009 3:16 PM in Lining chimney questionHello, Fireplace? Aluminum should be ok unless some other info we don't have, why I asked about fireplace. But you can't have the fireplace and gas appliances in the same vent. Got to have pitch to vent. Joining the two appliances outside of the chimney is easier than in the chimney. Probably why the one wants to do it that way. Don in Mo
@ June 20, 2009 5:07 PM in Geo units on cooling towerHello, A question on the current setup at work. We have geo units on a loop with a cooling tower. In winter we have a steam to hot water converter to provide heat to the loop. In summer the tower. My question is the way they add water and glycol. There is a tank with a site glass that is isolated from the loop when water and glycol is added. After adding the liquids, air is added to boost the pressure above 20 lbs. The system has an air seperator and air vents at the highest point of the system and a bladder tank for expansion. Will not the air elimanators work at removing the air in the "fill" tank? Don't I want to add water pressure to boost system pressure? I will try to get pics monday, will probably make more sense when you see it. Just does not make sense the way it is set up. Just started at the college here in April so have not experianced this system at work in extremes. Thanks Don in MO
@ June 6, 2009 4:37 PM in Trane RooftopsDoes that answer your question? LOL No I just spent half the day washing one way and then the other spraying it between the coils and getting half the dirt out I should. I am planning a coil washing party at this campus. Will have the cordless drill by then and plan to remove the top of the units that cover the coils, split them and wash out real good. Until that time the temp. wash will have to do! By the way, most residential splits I have noticed have the wonderfull split coils to prevent monstor size condensing units. Have a 3 ton HP myself that will need washed this summer if I don't get it this spring. Oh the unit is not tripping on cool failure anymore at least. Too many fires at the main campus right now to go back and check this one unit. Still need to replace a txv and fix a leak on two units at the "career center", replace belts and filters on the Semco unit in the mezzanine and etc, etc. Don in MO
@ June 3, 2009 10:09 AM in Trane RooftopsThanks Mike, No I did not know that that control had been replaced. Not Trane Factory, so trying to get the info to get these units back to working properly. One unit right now needs the charge pulled on both circuits. Washed the cond. coil Monday and still getting over 250lbs dishcharge pressure. Was running 76lbs suction with 73degrees suction line temp. Too much super heat. And with the above discharge press, I was getting 94 degrees liquid line. Too much subcooling. I replaced all the belts on these units this winter. They were supposed to be B belts, but had worn down to below A belts. I believe someone dumped gas in when the belts where worn trying to get suction press. up. I'll know when I pull the charge! Might be a TXV, won't know till the charge is checked. Thanks again Don in MO
@ June 1, 2009 10:32 PM in Trane RooftopsHi all, I have 9 trane rooftops at one of the campuses I take care of. They range from YCD090 to YCD480. Are these Voyager units? I have a manual number for voyager units that is supposed to be the trick to making sense of the electronic controls, Manual 22-7706-06.I want to order it, but only if it is for these units. Thanks Don in MO At Moberly Area Community College
@ May 30, 2009 5:07 PM in Can this be fixed?Then why did you demand a bypass? That is the purpase of the bypass. Don in Mo
@ May 21, 2009 11:07 PM in 13 SEER on old EvapHi all, Now working at the local community college overseeing their hvac. Installed a 13 Seer 3 phase condensor the other day on a 25 year old evap coil. I know, I know, should not have done that!! But my question is.....If I install a OEM txv will that give me better suction pressure? If I remember correctly, the new evap are sized for the higher charge of the new condeser. But what about the txv? Is it designed for the lower head pressure? If I remember correctly, most txv's are designed for a 100 pound pressure drop. With the lower head pressures and lower ambients wouldn't that txv have to be sized differently? Going to wholesale house tomorrow to get low ambient controls for it. Looking for the kind that senses liq. line temp and cycles fan speed. This system is going to get new txv, solenoid, and driers. Oh by the way the coil is a dual circuit. Two 5 ton cond. on the one coil in the one air handler. Just thinking out loud, never hurts, but most people do look at you funny. LOL
@ April 28, 2009 9:31 PM in SuperSeal HVACRSame here, Have not used it, but after reading the instructions informed the customer against using it for the exact same reasons you did Eugene. All the leaks were repairable and were not hidden. Use it on an old system that doesn't have any options but replace and the owners don't have the money! Then plan on replacing all lines and going completely new when the time arives and/or money arrives. Don in MO
@ April 10, 2009 5:19 PM in Faulty powerpile or thermostat?Hey Tim, I haven't seen any brand new deep fryers or gas ranges, but I believe they may still use the powerpile system on low end deep fryers and ranges. Kinda different working on kitchen equipment, you will have a simple power pile system on a deep fryer and next to it a high effeicency deep fryer with vent motors, pcb controls and spark ignition. Keeps you on your toes! Haven't worked on a floor furance in a long time, but do they still use the power pile system on new floor furnaces? Thanks Tim for your abundant knowledge! Don in MO
@ March 25, 2009 9:43 PM in Trap or No TrapDon, according to Carrier's new air handlers of a year or two ago they need to be deep!! I believe 4 inches. A running trap won't do and is a thing of the past. I noticed at a couple of wholesalers that the running trap isn't stocked or the bin is low and hasn't been reordered. I beleive everones's air handlers are going to need deeper traps or "real" traps to work right. Everyone is going to extremes to prevent air infiltration. I always liked the clear trap with the cleanouts and brush, can't remember their name thought. Don in MO
@ March 24, 2009 10:11 PM in Trap or No TrapCheck the Authority having Jurisdiction. Someone may make you install one on a positive coil because of the "code". Traps on the positive side coil just seem to cause problems!! Don in MO
@ March 21, 2009 8:59 PM in Milk CoolerI recovered the charge in the leak unit and had 18 lbs. Holds 19.5, so it is fixed and charged up. The first unit will be getting a new comp or cond. unit. Th price for the new Hi-performs went up almost $2000. Looked at the other tank yesterday(Fri) and condemned the comp on one of the cond. on it. Pretty much the same conditions. Recovered to check charge and it was right on 19 lbs. The lower tank unit was working pretty good. So with two comp. bad, I don't see them replacing the cond units with the cost so high and milk not really making a lot of money right now. You never know though, I told the Dairy Farmers Agent in charge of these milk stations that he needed to change out some of the older units or ones that have given him the most trouble last year. Gave him a price on a new cond. and they put it off. It will only get more expensive as time goes on. These four condensers are 1985 models and three have the original compressors. I would say they got their monies worth!! I know sometimes these coolers are a pain, but I like doing refrigeration and they are the only refrigeration I'm seeing right now. Of course if it wasn't for them I wouldn't have had any hours thursday and friday. Work is getting scarce here. Thanks for the reply Don, I'll try not to be so long between posts. I have some pics from that MRI trailer from last year that lost the "head master". We are going to replace the evap coil and fix a leak in the hot gas bypass line. Evap is full of holes, love to see the white foam on the end sheet!-not!! Don in MO
@ March 19, 2009 8:54 PM in Furniture & HumidityHello, The auto setting will control your humidity level. As the temp. gets colder outside the control will lower the humidity level inside. Take the control off auto and set to 40%. If you start to condense on the windows, set it lower. Good luck. Don in MO